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>Install can light trims
Install fixtures
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Finish Step 4 Install Recessed Can Light Trim
Recessed can light trims come in several different styles and sizes. Some have the socket mounted to the can on an adjustable bracket with the trim mounted separately to the can housing. Others have the socket mounted to the trim which is then mounted to can housing.
Newer cans have a heat sensor mounted inside the housing on the black wire to the socket. If the heat sensor is not in it's holder or if the wrong lamp wattage is used, the heat sensor will temporarily switch off power to the socket until it cools off. Different trims have different lamp wattage ratings. Look for the rating inside the can housing. It will show the style of trim and the maximum wattage based on the lamp style.
There are 4 basic styles of can light trim; Flat, Cone, Covered and Swivel
The Flat trim The lamp sits flush with the trim and the ceiling allowing light to shine in all directions around the room.
The Cone trim The lamp is more hidden up inside the cone making the light shine more downwards and not directly into your eyes.
Covered for Showers or Closets This trim has a glass or plastic cover that prevents contact with the hot lamp, a requirement in closets and showers.
Swivel trim Also called an "Eyeball Trim" this design allows the lamp to be pointed in a specific direction. It is commonly used to shine light on a fireplace mantel or bookcases or on sloped ceilings to have the light point more downward instead of the angle of the slope.
Install a Flat, Cone and Swivel can trim
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| Photo courtesy Wayfair |
Reach up into the can and pull out the socket. If you are outside at a soffit or porch can, beware of wasps nesting in the can. Attach the socket to the trim usually by squeezing the springs on the socket and inserting into the hole on the trim. With the socket attached to the trim, attach the trim to the can by squeezing the longer trim springs and setting them into the spring brackets. Slide the trim up tight against the ceiling and screw in the correct lamp. With the swivel trim turn the center section until the lamp points towards the fireplace, artwork or other points of interest.
Install a covered trim
Covered trims have 2 additional pieces. A glass or plastic cover that sits in the trim and a bowl shaped reflector that attaches to the can. Attach the socket to the reflector. Set the reflector into the can and screw in the correct lamp. Set the glass cover into the trim and squeeze the trim springs as you insert them into the spring brackets. Slide the trim up tight against the ceiling.
The "Finish" Stage
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Finish Step 5 Install Fixtures
Install lights and fans
Wall lights, flood lights, pull chains and chandeliers mount to standard 4 inch round light boxes with 8/32 screws. Chandeliers, and sometimes fluorescent shop lights, hang down on chains.
Fluorescent strips and vanity lights are sometimes mounted to the sheet rock with toggle bolts or zip it screws. Fluorescent lamps, 4 foot tubes or compact screw in style, cannot be put on a dimmer switch unless they are designed for dimmers.
Ceiling fans have to be mounted to special fan rated boxes with thicker 10/32 screws or heavy duty wood screws. Fans are heavy and tend to wobble. This will cause a thinner 8/32 screw to strip out of a standard light box. Never mount a ceiling fan to a standard 4 inch round plastic or fiberglass light box, use a metal fan rated box.
Install a Ceiling Fan.
Bruce W Maki wrote this good example of how a ceiling fan is installed; http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/elect/fixture/ceiling_fan/01/hunter_23843.htm
Some fans have to be assembled on the ceiling, one piece at a time. Other fans can be assembled on the floor by attaching the blades, down rod and light kit to the motor and then lifting it into place until the down rod ball sits into the ceiling mounted bracket. The fan that Bruce installs can be assembled on the floor and lifted into place, Bruce chose to assemble his fan on the ceiling. Assembling fans on the floor is faster than assembling them on the ceiling.
Install a Standard Light
Test the wires in the box to make sure the power is off.
Attach screws to the bracket and the bracket to the box.
Most fixtures have a bracket that mounts to the box and the light mounts to the bracket. There are 2 types of bracket mounting screws; Dual 8/32 mount or a single centered threaded nipple mount. It is difficult to set these bracket screws or nipple at the correct length. They have to be attached to the bracket with enough length to reach thru the light and allow the fixture nut to connect. After these bracket screws are attached to the bracket, mount the bracket to the round light box.
Connect the wires
Connect the light wires to the wires in the box; black wire to the black wire, white to white and ground to ground to the ground screw.
Mount the light to the bracket.
Set the light over the bracket screws (either the dual 8/32 s or the center nipple) making sure your wires are not sticking out around your light and then screw on the fixture nuts until the light pulls tight to the wall or ceiling. Instead of fixture nuts, some lights use the head of the screw to hold the light to the bracket. Push the heads thru the keyhole slots on the light. Turn the light so that the heads slide into the narrow part of the keyhole and then tighten the screws.
Install lamps and glass
Here is another good example, from Bruce W, Maki, of how hang a simple light fixture; http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/elect/fixture/lighting/incandescent/basic1.htm
Install a Chandelier
Test the wires in the box to make sure the power is off.
Measure the Height.
You need to know how low the bottom of the chandelier is to be. Chandeliers over dining tables tend to be hung low with the bottom of the light 5 to 7 feet off the floor. Chandeliers in entries and other areas where people walk under them, are held higher, 8 to 10 feet off the floor. To determine how long your chandelier will be, subtract the floor to light measurement from the total ceiling height. So if your customer wants the bottom of the chandelier to be 6 feet off the floor and the ceiling is 10 feet high, then 10 feet - 6 = a total chandelier length of 4 feet. Total, meaning the light plus the chain.
Assemble the Chandelier.
Occasionally a chandelier will be shipped already assembled but most have to be put together by you. Some will have a few parts maybe 5 to 10. Others will have 100s of pieces and parts. Pay extra attention when unpacking a light from its box so that no parts are thrown out in the trash. Search every inch of the packing for parts and don't allow the box to be thrown away until you are finished hanging the chandelier. When you have all the parts out look at the directions to see how they are to be assembled. The main parts of the chandelier are the fixture, chain, wires, canopy and bracket. Smaller decorative pieces can be assembled after the main parts are hung. Chandeliers come with extra chain that you will shorten to get the height that you want. In our example above we figured a total length of the light and the chain at 4 feet. If the light is 2 feet tall then you will need another 2 feet of chain to get your total length of 4 feet.
Mount the Chandelier with the Bracket.
Have someone help you lift and hold a heavy chandelier as you mount the bracket to the box with two 8/32 screws. Connect your wires. Lift the canopy in place and tighten the canopy nut. Make sure the weight of the light is hanging from the chain not the wires.
The "Finish" Stage
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Install devices
Install can light trims
Install fixtures
>Install appliances
Inspection
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Finish Step 6 Install Appliances
Install ovens, cook tops, microwaves, hoods, wire furnaces, air conditioners, dishwashers.
An overview of the important basics of installing appliances.
Microwaves and Hoods
The lower back edge of this microwave is hooked on to the wall mounted
back plate with the top front held out as shown. Before the top is pushed
in, the cord is sent up through a hole in the upper cabinet. Long mounting
screws are inserted from above to hold the microwave to the upper cabinet.
Photo by http://www.lowes.com
Install a Microwave
To avoid damaging the range always install a hood or microwave above range first, before installing the range.
Install the Microwave receptacle
The receptacle for the microwave is normally located in the cabinet above the Microwave.
Mount the back plate.
When finished the microwave will hang from 2 screws thru the upper cabinet and a wall mounted back plate . The back plate mounts to the back wall with toggle bolts and wood screws that are set into wall studs.
2 key rules about the back plate are;
- Keep the plate centered , left side to right side, in the opening. Working from the center line on the back plate and the upper mounting holes will help keep the top screw holes lined up.
- Make sure the top of the back plate is level (same distance off the floor) with the bottom edge of the front of the upper cabinet . If your upper cabinet extends down at the front edge but not in the back, against the wall, then you will have to lower your back plate down, away from the cabinet until it is level with this front extension. Otherwise your microwave will be too high in the back and the upper screws won't line up.
Drill holes in the upper cabinet for the cord and mounting screws
2 small holes for the mounting screws and 1 larger hole for the cord. The cord can lay in a gap between the top of the microwave and the bottom of the cabinet. Drill a large hole, usually 1 and 1/4 inch, directly below your receptacle and close to the back wall. Because of the gap, the hole doesn't have to line up with anything but your receptacle. It can come out of the microwave on the front right and enter the cabinet on the back left.
The 2 small screw holes require much more precision. Be sure to include the depth of the back plate. Use the supplied template or take measurements just be curtain to work off a center line, not the edges of the cabinet. Drill a hole larger than the screw, to allow room for error, yet small enough to prevent the washer from entering.
Choose the exhaust fan direction.
A blower fan on the top of the microwave might have to be rotated. If the microwave is to be vented up thru the attic, the blower will have to point up. If the microwave is to be vented thru its lower filters, then the blower will have to point down. Most microwaves come with the blower pointing down. You will only have to rotate the blower if it is to be vented up and out.
Mount Microwave, plug it in, turn on power
Place the washers on the screws and lay them in the upper cabinet. With the help of another, lift the microwave into position and hook the bottom back of the unit on to the bottom hooks of the back plate. With the top leaning slightly away from the wall, push the cord thru the hole and pull all the slack as you lean the unit back tight against the wall. Now, insert the screws with washers down thru the upper cabinet holes and into the unit. Tighten screws, plug in the cord and turn on the breaker.
Install a Hood.
The hood has no back plate. Screws are mounted from below into the
upper cabinet. It is best to attach a cord to the hood and plug it into a
20 amp circuit that is dedicated to one receptacle in the upper cabinet.
This makes it easy to replace the hood with a microwave.
Photo by http://www.lowes.com
Install the Hood receptacle.
The receptacle for the hood should be in the same cabinet as the microwave's receptacle; normally the back of the upper cabinet above the range space. Some hoods are wired directly into the hood which can make it difficult to convert the hood to a microwave. Run a 20 amp circuit to one receptacle in the cabinet above the hood and in the future it will be easier to convert the hood into a microwave. (microwave/hood combination unit)
Attach a cord to the hood.
Remove the hood's junction box cover and the small round knock out on the top of the hood. Insert cord with connector and make wiring connections, black to black, white to white and green to green or to the ground screw.
Drill a hole for the cord in the upper cabinet
The Hood and the microwave both need a large hole drilled out for the cord, usually 1 and 1/4 inch, directly below your receptacle and close to the back wall. As mentioned in the microwave installation the gap between the cabinet and the hood allows the cord to swing over to your cord hole. Drill your hole directly below your receptacle instead of directly above where it comes out of the hood. You don't want the cord to come up in the middle of the cabinet. You want it hidden towards the back.
Mount hood, plug it in, turn on power. Insert cord into the upper cabinet hole and pull up the slack as you raise the hood into position. Screw upwards thru hood into the upper cabinet in a way that the screws will not show inside the cabinet. Plug in the cord and turn on the breaker.
When You Have A Wire Instead of a Receptacle. If you have a wire sticking out of the back wall (above range) instead of a receptacle in the upper cabinet, route the wire into the back knock out on the hood. Remove the hood's junction box cover and the small round knock out on the back of the hood. Insert a wire connector into the knock out. Insert the wire thru the connector and into the hood's junction box as you mount the hood to the upper cabinet. Make up your wiring connections, black to black, white to white and bare copper to the green wire or to the green round screw.
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