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Install a Built in Wall Oven, a Built in Range or a Free Standing Range.
Wall ovens have one or 2 ovens but no cook top and they are built in to the side of the cabinet.
A "Built In" Double wall oven has 2 ovens and no cook top.
A range is a combination oven+ cook top. Ranges can be built in to the cabinet with no legs or lower drawer or they stand free, unattached to the cabinetry with legs and a lower drawer section. Notice the difference between the "Built in" and "Free standing" ranges in the photos.
Check measurements first;
Before installing, measure the wall oven and cabinet dimensions to see if it will fit Height, Width and Depth including the junction box. Wall ovens are heavy, make sure it's going to fit before you move it. Sometimes the cabinet installer will have to modify the size of the cabinet before you can install the oven, or they might have the return the oven to the store because it is not the one that was ordered. Many times the oven will fit with height and width but not depth. It will not push all the way back because it is hitting the electrical junction box or j-box. The j-box is normally ametal junction box 4 inch by 4 inch square or "4S box", with 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch removable knock out holes and a blank metal 4S cover. The j-box may have to be recessed into the back of the cabinet or moved down to the lower section behind a drawer.
Turn off power and install the receptacle or j-box. Free standing ranges have a cord that may need to be installed on range and a plug in receptacle that will need to be installed in the bottom back of the range opening . Install the range receptacle in a way that will allow the cord, with its 90 degree bend, to plug in. A "Built In" range is a combination oven and cook top that is attached to the cabinet
Wall ovens and built in ranges have an electrical j-box instead of a cord and plug. Install the house wires located in the oven opening, into a j-box that you provide. Later on, when the oven is moved over to the opening, the wires hanging from the back of the unit are also connected to the j-box.
Mount anti-tip bracket on floor.
Only the free standing range (the kind with legs and a bottom drawer) requires an anti tip bracket.Installing an anti-tip bracket is important to prevent hot grease from spilling on someone as weight is applied to an open oven door causing the range to tip forward. The bracket is normally shipped with the owners manuals inside the oven. Wall ovens and built in ranges don't need an anti tip bracket because they are screwed to the cabinet to prevent tipping.
The anti tip bracket is screwed into the floor where the back leg of the range will slide into the bracket and hold the range down. Check the range at your house and your friends ranges to see if they tip. With the power off and the cook top clear open the oven door and press down on it to see if the back end of the range lifts off the ground. If it does, its dangerous. Install an anti tip bracket.
Attach the cord on back of the free standing range.
A "Free Standing" range is not attached to the cabinets. It can be pulled out, unplugged
and moved to another house
The cord is normally shipped with the range. The cord wires are connected to a terminal block inside the back bottom of the range. A bonding jumper may have to be remove between the neutral terminal and the ground. Wall ovens and built in ranges will have a flexible metal conduit with wires ready for connection in your j-box. In these wires the neutral and ground wires may have to be separated.
Remove the oven doors to reduce the weight and allow a better grip.
Flip a lever on the door hinge and slightly close door to remove it from the oven.
Don't lift the oven or range by the door handles.
Protect the floor and set the range near the opening.
A heavy unit can rip vinyl flooring, chip tile and scratch wood floors. Lay down a scrap piece of carpet or cardboard.
Plug in the free standing range.
With the built in units; connect the wires in the j-box and install the blank cover. After the oven is in position in the cabinet, use the 4 mounting screws provided in the parts bag to mount the sides to the cabinet. You might have to remove two side trim pieces to find the mounting holes.
Adjust feet to level.
Free standing ranges might need to be leveled. Adjust the height by turning the feet. You might have to take out the bottom drawer to access the back feet.
Replace doors, save owner's manual.
Hold the door with the hinges in their socket, reset the hinge lever and close the door. Replace the oven racks and remove anything that does not belong inside a hot oven like shipping cardboard, tape or plastic. Set the owners manuals in a nearby kitchen drawer.
Turn on breaker, test, turn off breaker.
When everything looks safe, turn on the breaker and test the unit. Turn on all the burners and when they appear to be working turn them back off. When everything looks good turn the circuit breaker off to prevent a fire. Construction workers will set allot of supplies nearby and even on top of the burners. Someone else might bump the burner on. If something does not work on an appliance, inform your supervisor or the builder. Don't try to fix an appliance you will void the warranty.
Install an Electric Cook top.
Gas cook tops usually only need a standard 120 volt receptacle in the lower cabinet.
Electric cook tops require allot more power, normally a 30 amp 240 volt 10/3 home run from the panel to the cabinet below the cook top.
Clear out lower cabinet.
Cook tops are mounted into the counter allowing a cabinet space below. This space might have drawers that will need to be removed in order to access the 10/3 home run that should be sticking into the back of the lower cabinet. Remove the drawers and anything else that might be in the way.
Mount the J-Box. Cook tops will have an attached junction box or a wiring whip. If your cook top has a junction box then your home run needs to be long enough to reach the j-box and allow the drawers to close. The wire is sleeved in flexible plastic tubing with a connector attaching it to the cook top's j-box. If your cook top has a wiring whip attached to it then you can shorten your wire to 8 inches and mount a j-box right over it. If the wire is entering the cabinet in a way that will not allow a j-box then sleeve some tubing over it allowing it to move to a better location where you can mount your j-box.
Mount Cook top. The cook top opening is usually cut out by the builder or the company that installed the counter top. Follow the directions that come with the unit on attaching the hardware that is used to clamp the unit to the counter. Some hardware is attached to the cook top before you set it into the hole. When ready, set the cook top into the opening and continue to clamp the unit to the counter from below.
Connect wires, turn power on, test and turn power off. When the unit is set, strap the wiring whip to the back of the cabinet so it will not interfere with the movement of the drawers. Insert the whip wires into the j-box and tighten the lock nut on to the connector. Strip and connect the wires with a red wire nut or one rated large enough to join 2 #10 awg size wires. When the wire nut is tight, tighten it some more. The colors should match; white to white, black to black, red to red and green to bare copper.When finished, turn on the breaker and test the cook top. Turn on all the burners and when they appear to be working turn them back off. As mentioned with the range, it is a good idea to turn the circuit breaker off after your test. You don't want someone to start a fire. Construction workers will set allot of supplies nearby and even on top of a range while someone else might bump the burner on.
Install a Dishwasher.
A Dishwasher with a receptacle under the sink.
Attach a wire connector to a 6 foot cord and insert into the dishwasher's small junction box located on the lower front right side. Some cords have black, white and green colored wires. Others have some type of identifying make on the neutral side usually ribbed grooves. Some plastic wire connectors just push into the hole and the cord is pushed through the connector. Other designs have a clamp that screws tight to the wire and a lock ring that screws to the connector after it is inserted into the hole in the j-box. When the cord end is in the j-box and the lock ring is tight, make up your wire connections; the cord's black or smooth coated wire to the dishwasher's black wire, the cord's white or ribbed wire to the dishwasher's white and the cord's bare or green wire to the ground screw. Put the junction box cover back on.
Drill out a hole large enough for the cord end to pass through and into the under sink area where your dishwasher receptacle should be located. If the dishwasher's plumbing is not attached yet then leave the dishwasher for the plumber to work on. They will be able to plug it in for you when they are done.
A Dishwasher with a wire sticking out of the wall.
Dishwashers should be plugged in or have some form of code required disconnecting means, but many areas of the country will run a hot wire directly to the dishwasher. Make sure the breaker is off. Wait for the plumber to make their connections first. Then attach a wire connector to your 12/2 wire and insert the wires into the dishwasher's junction box and make up your connections; black wire from the wall to the dishwasher's black wire, white to white and green to the ground screw.
Install a Water Heater, Air Conditioner and Furnace.
Actually electricians don't install these 3 units, we just hook them up.
If you hook up and turn on a water heater before it contains water, you will damage it.
Mount the Disconnect. All 3 of these require some type of disconnect nearby.
The disconnect is normally mounted on the wall over the end of your home run. It allows the user to disconnect the electricity without searching for the electrical panel. The home run wires are stripped and inserted into the line side or incoming terminals in the disconnect.
Assemble and Attach the Wiring Whip.
Another set of wires is run from the unit to the disconnect thru some type of wire whip or flexible conduit and connected to the load side terminals. Wire whips can be purchased pre-assembled or made by you. They are a 3 foot to 10 foot length of flex with wires inside and a connector on both ends with a lock nut and sometimes reducing washers. Make sure the whip wires are the correct size normally the same size as your home run wires in your disconnect. With the AC outside in the rain the flex has to be some type of weather proof plastic tubing. This plastic tubing can also be used indoors on the water heater and electric furnaces but most would use a flexible metal tubing. Using plastic instead of metal flex eliminates special grounding requirements. Some electric furnaces have a disconnect inside the unit, the home run wires are run through plastic tubing directly into the unit. Gas furnaces still need electricity for the blower. A switch or fused switch is normally used as a disconnect for a gas furnace.
Connect Wires in the Unit. Identify Line and Load.
The whip is connected to the disconnect and to the unit. The wires in the whip are connected to the load side (out going) at the disconnect and the line side (incoming) at the unit. The line side is sometimes identified as L1 and L2. Notice the word "IN" inside the word "LINE" The line side is IN coming power. It brings electricity IN from the utility company. If you have some wires and you are trying to figure out if they are Line or Load, ask yourself if the wires are carrying power IN from the utility. Wires coming from an electrical panel would be carrying power IN from the utility so they would be Line. Wires coming IN from an air conditioner are not carrying power IN from a utility so they are the load.
Knock out a hole, insert the wires and the whip connector into the hole and secure with a lock nut. Connect the whip ground to a green ground screw or a green ground wire inside the unit. Connect the feed wires to the L1 and L2 terminals. Close the unit cover.
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